Where to eat, drink, shop and stay in Romania’s buzzy student hub

Cluj-Napoca is best known as the capital of Transylvania – but on Earth, it is more commonly referred to as Cluj. Napoca was the name of the Roman castle that was here about 2,000 years ago, and saying out loud “Cluj-Napoca” is a bit like calling your mother by her full name over a cup of coffee.

Most people who have heard “Transylvania” think of “Dracula,” and the area is home to many wonderful medieval castles, if not the bloodthirsty counts. It is located in the center of Romania, and outside of legends, you will also find the Southern Carpathians – a wilderness where bears, bison and wolves still roam free. Add in some charming towns, and the fact that a pound goes a long way in Romania, and this is a real off-track adventure.

Today, the center of Cluj is home to a vibrant old town, and away from the vampire chaos, the streets here serve the people. Think trendy restaurants hidden in the alleys and crowded bars of narrow cobbled streets that light up at night. Home to Romania’s largest university, it’s a student city where culture thrives, sweeping views of the Sumisol Mik River, combined with Baroque and Gothic architecture, are just a short walk away. If you have two extra days to kill any aspect of a trip to Dracula’s castle or nature beyond, you can count on Cluj to impress you.

what should I do

Explore Unirii Square and the Old Town

There are plenty of day trips from the city to Bran Castle (often called Dracula’s Castle) and to various other locations in the Carpathian Mountains, but don’t mistake Cluj and the Transylvanian Bus Terminal. Another beautiful city, the more southern Brasov, is the gateway to Bran Castle.

Once you arrive at the medieval square Unirii in the center of Cluj, you will not be in a hurry to leave. St. Michael’s Gothic Church is guarded by an interesting monument honoring Matthias Corvinus, the 15th century king of Hungary. The house of Corvinus was born in a place just beyond, on the stones of Strada Matei Corvin. To the right of Unirii Square is the National Gallery of Art (8 lei / £1.30), in the old Banffy Palace, and to the left are several cafes with outdoor seating. Peek at Strada Episcop Ioan Bob, hidden among the benches, and you might see an old-fashioned bookseller setting up shop.

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Fountains in Unirii Square (Romania Tourism)

Get panoramic hillside views

Upon leaving the old town, cross the Somesul Mic River and you’ll find yourself on the edge of Cetatuia Hill. A few hundred steps uphill, you’ll be looking at the whole of Cluj, which looks greener from above from the ground. The view gives you an idea of ​​how the city sits and its slopes, with houses rising steeply to the surrounding hills (something you’ll know if you had to climb one to get to your hotel). To your left and just below it is the Old Town, and to your right you’ll have a great view of the gentle curves of Cluj Square, home of the CFR Cluj and one of the most beautiful football stadiums in Europe.

Extend your walk across the Elisabeta Bridge to stroll around Simion Barnutiu Central Park.

Indulge in art

The National Museum is a must-visit for lovers of classic art, but on the more sophisticated side is Fabrica de Pensol – a contemporary (non-Covid) art network that boasts a busy calendar of concerts, talks, exhibitions, performances and workshops. For regional art, visit the Galeria Quadro, which focuses on modern art from Transylvania and the Eastern Bloc.

If the timing of your visit is flexible, try to make it coincide with one of the many art festivals in Cluj. The Untold Dance Festival (from €199 / £167 for a four-day pass) brings in the biggest names in EDM; The Electric Castle Music Festival (from £110 for a five-day pass) is half an hour away at Banffy Castle, with Gorillaz, Twenty One Pilots and Deftones appearing in 2022; While Jazz in the Park (tickets not sold out for 2022) was voted Europe’s Best Small Festival in 2019. The Transylvania International Film Festival, scheduled for June, is also Romania’s first feature film festival.

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Cluj’s Old Town at Night (Stuart Kenny)

where to stay

ApartHotel Gutinului is a recently renovated quirky apartment building less than 10 minutes from the city centre. It’s affordable, has reliable wifi, and every room is decorated in a different country style. You may find yourself sleeping under a Moroccan arch or next to walls covered in Japanese icons. My husband’s from £42, room only. cazare-cluj.ro/despre-noi/

Zen Hostel is smack smack in the middle of town. Filled with vibrant murals and homemade furnishings, the space feels alive. This homey aesthetic can mean you’ll sleep on a mattress stuck atop some wooden crates, of course, but it’s comfortable enough. There are also two very common areas – to relax, head straight to the hammocks. My husband’s from £25, room only. zenhotels.com

For luxury, head to the Platinia Hotel (my husband from £167, B&B). A brand new five star hotel, it has a modern and elegant vibe, with plenty of wood and space used wisely. Basically, it’s fictional – in a wonderful way. hotelplatinia.ro/en

where do you eat

Grab brunch at District of Toast’s waste-free café. The halloumi sandwich is mouth-watering, the omelettes come stacked with toppings, and the bread comes from the local Diozigi bakery. Or, if you miss Greggs, there are plenty of portals around town selling pastries to go.

For traditional cuisine, head straight to Roata. If you find yourself on a residential side street and think you’re lost, that’s fine – you’re almost done. try the cabbage (wrapped) No clog. A minute down the road, you’ll also find Jaxx, a rock-themed joint perfect for a greasy bite and a beer.

For a feast with a view, check out the Klausenburger Penthouse, a craft brewing joint accessible via lift next to Centrul Shopping Centre. It’s a modern space with bar food and traditional food – healthy goulash and the views from the rooftop terrace are far-reaching.

Samsara Foodhouse offers a huge list of vegetarian and vegan foods. An exposed brick wall at one end and an olive tree in the middle hint at the earthy atmosphere. Try roasted pumpkin or Eggplant, Parmigiana.

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Toast Zone (Toast Zone)

where do you drink

Meron will sort out your caffeine fix. They sell freshly lit coffee in their own roastery in Transylvania. Simple and elegant, the focus here is on the drinks. Meron rotates their coffee selection once a month, and the staff are friendly, talkative, and available to help if you ever need to ask about the V60 coffee dripper.

When it’s time for a beer, head to the eclectic Insomnia Cafe. There is a colorful drinking area outdoors, and inside you’ll find all manner of psychedelic artwork and wonky decor. The space was actually an art gallery, and it still appears today.

Another option for a lively evening is to head to Shto Bar, a tightly packed drinking hall where conversations flow as fast as beer. Another strong tactic is to wander the streets of the old town at night and choose whichever comfortable bar is to your liking.

Where to shop

There are many shopping centers in Cluj. The newest in town is the Platina Shopping Centre. Recently renovated site, now open 24/7, you’ll find everything here, from international brands like Anna Lafaet to Romanian brands like Urma (Fashion) and Carturesti (Books).

For more whimsical finds, head to the Ausser Saturday morning flea market (Strada Bobalnei 65), where you’ll find food, antiques, and bric-a-brac galore.

Architectural highlight

The 360-degree rotation of Avram Iancu Square gives you views of two distinct architectural styles: the neo-baroque form of the National Opera and the Dormition of the Theotokos Cathedral, which combines Renaissance and Byzantine architecture in the Roman Brancovenesc style. Arches and elegant facades are topped by statues of Terpsichore, inspiring poetry and dance, and Thalia, inspiring comedy and theater. The dome of the cathedral is inspired by the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.

Nuts and bolts

What currency do I need?

Romanian leu (although the euro is sometimes accepted).

What language do they speak?

Romanian.

Do I have to tip?

10 percent.

What is the time difference?

Eastern European Standard Time – GMT + 2.

How should I walk around?

The best way to explore is on foot, but the modern electric bus network only costs 2.5 lei (40 pence) for the trip. Traffic can get bad.

What is the best view?

Setatuya Hill.

Insider advice?

Hit ArtCrawl for a detailed tour of the contemporary art scene with a local who knows the spaces (€20 per person). But avoid Sundays, when many galleries are closed.

Heading there

Trying to fly less?

You can make your way across Europe to Romania by train, crossing Belgium, Germany, and Austria-Hungary in the process (great potential for a multi-stop tour). Take the Eurostar train to Brussels, where the ICE train serves Frankfurt, then Nuremberg. Here you can change to Vienna, where you can catch a train that goes through Hungary to Cluj.

okay with flying?

Both Wizz Air and Blue Air have flights to Cluj from the UK.

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