Minimalism began as a way of describing artworks that were revealed and stripped of the superfluous. Then, when applied to interiors, simplicity became associated with Scandinavian design, emphasizing simplicity in light and bright spaces.
The aesthetic came naturally to Annette Wheelander, who was born in Gothenburg, Sweden’s second largest city, a seaside retreat also known as the birthplace of Volvo cars and their dedication to sustainable living.
All of these influences played a role in Wellander’s life at a young age. She studied Art History and Visual Studies at the University of Gothenburg, then transferred to the Business School of the Higher Institute of Marketing. From there, she transferred to the Burgess School of Communication in Stockholm, graduating to work in communications, branding and design.
Along the way, Wellander says she continued to “indulge my interests in painting, sculpture, and photography.” It was at this time that I met a goldsmith who worked for the Canadian Maison Birks. That’s when Wellander said the inspiration hit.
Using her own Scandinavian heritage, she can design fine jewelry that not only establishes her own brand, but can also help tell the story of Sweden, its unique red gold, and the nation’s efforts to bring sustainable thinking into every aspect of her teamwork.
Launched in 2018, her design house highlights how design, culture and artistic principles are incorporated into each one of her creations. The signature of the house is a diamond hidden within each piece of jewelry.
“It’s about creating meaning and conveying feelings in order to establish a connection,” Wellander says.
Think of it as if the architectural principle of form follows function, she says.
“Our jewelry influences from modern architecture that is pleasing in its design but also has a purpose in terms of function and the basics are clean and simple,” says Wellander. “It is about meeting practical and expressive requirements.”
This is especially true of the materials you choose to work with as a jeweler. For example, the brand’s signature is 18 karat Swedish red gold. This rare precious metal is only available in Sweden, and Wellander says she believes it is the first and only Swedish brand to market this rare gold worldwide.
Her work also proves her Swedish provenance through a series of unique trademark distinguishing features on all designs, including the unique Swedish control mark: the small national coat of arms in a tri-patterned shield often referred to as the “cat’s claw”. The mark has been a Swedish tradition since 1754 and guarantees the authenticity of the gold piece.
In addition, each piece features the brand’s unique sponsor’s mark (manufacturer’s mark) as well as the Stockholm city mark, the crowned head of the patron saint of Saint Eric, and the purity mark of the 18k gold that ensures the purity of the metal.
“This way, we guarantee our clients complete transparency about the designs’ rarity and their Swedish origin,” says Wellander.
The nation also influences the effect it wants now and in the future as a sustainable jeweler.
“Sweden is one of the leading countries in the world in terms of sustainable practices. Our social and environmental impact, and the responsibilities that come with it, is something we monitor very seriously,” says Wellander. “We believe one of our main responsibilities is to create pieces that are of the highest quality and remain desirable and worn for a long time.”
That kind of rarity is something Wellander says that also influences her next moves as a designer. This spring, she launched her first collection featuring rare pink diamonds from the Argyle mine.
“We are constantly developing the brand and trying to push the boundaries of creativity,” she says.
Page top: Swedish jeweler Annette Wellander says her culture and focus on minimalist design and sustainability are among her most important influences, creating a “form meets function” approach to her jewelry (all photos courtesy of Annette Wellander).
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